A brief note
Concert season, goth day, surprise Champagne
How are you? I’ve spent the day flitting around my apartment, drinking coffee and trying to get things done before meeting up with my friend Bel for dinner and a concert. We’re seeing Steve Tannen of the Weepies perform on the Lower East Side, which I expect will be delightful. The first time we ever hung out, we drove from Boston to North Adams to see the Weepies at MASS MoCA, so their music has a special role in our friendship. Some of my favorite artists are coming to the city this fall, and I’ve managed to request a few nights off from work to see their concerts. I want to fill this season with all of the art — my own and that of others. Art for the sake of art is the perfect antidote to the pressures of work.
This past Tuesday was my third day of opening Hart’s and running the pass, and it was also my fifth day of work in a row, which meant I was running on pure adrenaline. It rained from morning until night — fluctuating between gentle mist and fat droplets, but always, always coming down. Megan, Hope, and I decided the day prior to wear goth outfits (i.e. all black) just for the fun of it, not knowing that the weather would be as moody as our attire. It’s funny how something as simple as an all black dress code can alter the tenor of a shift and make us all feel playful and young. That morning, I zipped up my platform Docs, coated my lashes with mascara, and made my way to work, feeling myself but different.
I got to work before my coworkers, hot coffee in hand, and blasted a podcast as I set up the restaurant. Into the oven went a sheet tray with Jimmy Nardello peppers, wedges of heirloom tomatoes, petals of onion, peeled garlic cloves, and chunks of stale bread, all coated in olive oil and sprinkled with salt. It was the start of a gloriously rich, smoky romesco. Then, I caramelized onions in a cast iron skillet, filling the prep kitchen with a sweet aroma. Once the onions were cooked to my liking, I took a few potatoes and summer squash to a mandoline, shaving them into thin rounds and arranging them on top of the onions. Fresh thyme, salt, black pepper, olive oil. Bake. This tian-like creation became the center of family meal later that day. The girls arrived soon after and helped me complete bigger projects and prepare for service. Heaven (or one form of it, at least) is a well-equipped kitchen, a walk-in refrigerator full of produce, and plenty of time, knowing that people will be coming later to eat your food.
Service rolled around quickly, and it was the slowest one I’ve ever witnessed at Hart’s — likely a combination of the rain and post-Labor Day fatigue and frugality. While it wasn’t as exciting as other nights, it was nice to be able to breathe and be extra intentional about everything. We put on dance music and chatted with the front of house staff, and whenever an order came in, we became perfectionists, tasting and talking about each other’s food with attention to detail. Teo came in for dinner with his whole family, and I felt proud to be at the pass, sending out every dish. At the end of the night, the general manager opened a special bottle of Champagne to thank us for holding the restaurant down in the absence of our chef and sous chef. It was such a sweet gesture that I teared up a little, as I’m wont to do when I’m really moved.
My chef is back from vacation, so work should return to normalcy, whatever normalcy means in the restaurant industry.
Lots of love!
Phoebe
I love all the love you pour into your work. It’s overflowing!!
That is such a gorgeous side profile picture of you phoebs!❤️❤️