My Roman favorites
including a Google Maps link to guide you around!
Hello from London, friends! Over the weekend I rounded up this list of my favorite places in Rome, and it was such a lovely way to reflect on my time there. It’s mooooostly a list of food recommendations, but there are some other things sprinkled in there, too. Keep reading for lil descriptions of each place, or go straight to this public Google Maps folder to see everything laid out on a map.
I loved writing to you from Rome these past 6 months, and I can’t wait to see how The Dish evolves in my next chapter. Feel free to share with anyone who you think might like to follow along!
My Roman favorites
Restaurants
Al Pompiere
My favorite restaurant in Rome. Old-fashioned dining room on the second floor of a beautiful building in the Jewish Ghetto. Order the fried artichoke, the fried squash blossoms stuffed with mozzarella and anchovies, the carbonara, the lemon tagliolini, the crispy endive (torzello), and the affogato (espresso poured over gelato). Can you tell I’ve been a few times?
Osteria La Gensola
My pick for a relaxed dinner in Trastevere. The menu is seafood-forward, and the service is warm and attentive. I love the spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams).
Santo Palato
Modern Roman restaurant with a cool, casual vibe. The carbonara and the oxtail meatball are aces.
Trecca
Relaxed energy, attentive service, and high-quality food. You can get the classic Roman pastas at Trecca, but the real highlight to me is their treatment of vegetables. Thinly sliced eggplant marinated in olive oil and vinegar, friggitelli, or small green peppers, blasted until charred and crumpled, etc.
Romanè
In the same world as Santo Palato and Trecca…a modern spin on a classic Roman trattoria.
Trattoria Pennestri
The people who work here are SO nice; the dining room is chic but not fussy; the food is elegant and hearty. I’m obsessed with the maltagliati (a type of pasta with irregularly-shaped sheets), which comes with a chicken liver ragĂ¹. And the tiramisu is one of the best I’ve tried.Â
Trattoria da Cesare al Casaletto
It’s an easy bus ride from the historic center to this classic Roman trattoria. Everything is good!
Bars
CircolettoÂ
Trecca’s sister biz. Natural wine, craft beer, & A+ bar snacks (think fried anchovies, marinated eggplant, sweetbreads, beef tongue panino, etc.)
Latteria Trastevere
Where I went on my first night in Rome back in February, and where I kept going again and again throughout my time here. Natural wine, cozy space, EXCELLENT food. My dream solo meal: bread with butter and anchovies and a glass of wine at Latteria.
La Mescita - Monteverde
Wine bar near the Academy with a fun vibe and friendly service. Fun place to lounge on a weekend evening.
Your local piazza + a beer :)
Worth mentioning. The cheapest and best bar in town.
Gelato shops
Fatamorgana Trastevere
Artisanal gelato. Some weird flavors, some classics. Their fresh mint stracciatella is heaven, and I’m always happy when they have it in stock.Â
Panna & Co.
Giorgia’s local gelateria. Ever-changing, creative flavors in a small, understated space. The raspberry-chili flavor I had on my last night in Rome was exceptional.
La Gourmandise
Past RSFP interns Giulia and Georgia pointed me to this hidden gem in Monteverde, and it quickly became a favorite. Remarkably balanced flavors in a teeny tiny shop frequented by locals.
OtalegÂ
Honorable mention! The texture tends to be a bit icy for my taste, but the flavors are delicious and made with thoughtfully sourced ingredients.Â
Bakeries/Cafés
Le Levain
French bakery in Trastevere with truly gorgeous pastries and bread. The pain au chocolat is heaven. Skip the coffee, which comes from a self-service machine. Bring your breakfast to neighboring Piazza San Cosimato.Â
Marigold
Seasonal bakery/cafe owned and run by alumni of RSFP, one of whom also went to Ballymaloe. Unsurprisingly, my taste is very aligned with their food, which is bright and simple. I often went by myself to read a book, savor a cappuccino, and eat something delicious.
Forno Campo de ‘Fiori
This legendary bakery can get mobbed with tourists at peak hours, so I prefer to go in the morning for pizza bianca stuffed with mortadella (yes, that’s a normal breakfast in Rome). Plus, I find that the pizza bianca tends to be warmer and fresher in the morning.
Faro - Luminaries of Coffee
Specialty coffee. Probably the strongest (in a good way), most velvety cappuccino in town.
Forno Conti & Co.
Chic artisanal bakery in Esquilino. Can’t go wrong! Their bread is particularly good.Â
Cristalli di Zucchero
Italian pastry shop in Monteverde. Clean and modern, with stunning cakes, pastries, and cookies.Â
Markets
Testaccio Market
Large covered market with stalls selling everything from produce to homeware to clothes. My favorite stalls are 18 (Da Corrado: wine, cheese, sharing plates), 68 (Silvia’s fruit & veg), and 28 (Adelaide: design-forward homeware, prints, & knick-knacks)
Campagna Amica Market - Circo Massimo
Well-organized farmers market, open every Saturday and Sunday. One-stop shop with glorious fruit, vegetables, bread, olive oil, cheese, meat, etc.Â
Stores
Beppe e i suoi Formaggi
Great selection of cheeses, cured meats, and other specialty food products like butter and anchovies.
Lela
A small shop full of minimalist Scandinavian home accessories like wooden spoons, ceramic espresso cups, and linen dishcloths.
5punto5
Tiny boutique near the Campo de’ Fiori with a constantly changing collection of clothing. Expensive, unfortunately…but worth a window shop at least!Â
Les VigneronsÂ
Natural wine and craft beer shop with the nicest owner.
Otherwise & Almost Corner
Local bookstores that primarily sell books in English.
Museums/Must-sees
Galleria Doria Pamphilj
A private art collection in a sumptuous palazzo. Expect oil paintings, sculptures, frescoes, mirrors, and so on. Bonus: it never seems to be overrun with tourists.
Museo dell’Ara Pacis
A modern Richard Meier building that houses an ancient monument.
The Pantheon
In my opinion, the Pantheon is the most beautiful building in Rome, if not the world.
Centrale Montemartini
A power plant-turned-museum with an impressive collection of archeological artifacts.
Parks
Villa Doria Pamphilj
So lucky to have lived beside this magnificent public park this past year. The park surrounds a 17th century villa (hence the name), and is frequented by people of all ages. I particularly like going in the early morning, when the grandmas and grandpas are out exercising in neon workout attire. Fitspo!
Botanical Garden of Rome
An oasis between Trastevere and the Janiculum Hill with thousands of plant species.
More soon!
xx,
Phoebe
Stepping out of my role as a serial The Dish lurker to say I'm sooo glad you enjoyed Rome!! I learned so much about my old city from this series, so i'm sad to see this era end </3 but looking forward to the next one + wishing you luck <3
Phoebe!! Brian and I both have loved reading your "letters from Rome!" Best of luck with the next chapter. If you're in a meandering mood before you move back to NYC, come visit us in Maine!
XOX RAH