Hi, friends! I have another diary-style entry for you this week, and this time I’ll be covering my solo trip to Sicily.
Friday, March 28th: Notes from Rome
Before I get to Sicily, here is a list of Very Good Things I cooked and/or ate this week, because, in short, I refuse to forget them!
Pasta alla gricia (pasta with crispy, fatty rendered guanciale and Pecorino Romano — one of the four classic Roman pastas), with a primavera twist of fava beans and mint
The classic Sicilian pairing of fennel, orange, and olives. Lots of olive oil to mellow the oranges’ acidity. A smattering of finely chopped fennel fronds. Chef’s treat: orange slices with olive oil and salt.
Madeleines with salted butter, lemon, and ginger. A recipe from Eriko Kurosawa, a Japanese baker I follow on Instagram (@tokyoette). I shared a photo of the final product with her, which sparked a DM conversation about baking, and how to improve at the art. Sometimes I love Instagram so much.
Braised artichokes and squid — green and pink, with the taste of earth and sea.
Zucchine romanesche (Roman zucchini), characterized by their light green shade, striped pattern, and delicate flowers. We cut them lengthwise, then lengthwise again, grilled them quickly over high heat, and marinated them in olive oil, red wine vinegar, mint, and salt.
Twirly buns with dark chocolate and Hawaij Kaffe, a sweet, earthy Yemenite spice blend with cardamom, ginger, cinnamon, and cloves. My friend Sarah Friedman brought it over as a gift from Israel when she visited Rome, and I shared it with the RSFP kitchen so we could all play with it.
At home, a waxy potato, peeled, cut into chunks, and boiled in salted water with bay leaves and garlic. Dressed with olive oil, lemon, salt, and tossed with a handful of double-shucked fava beans and some finely chopped parsley and mint. A meal for one that’s as soothing to cook as it is to eat.
Tomorrow I’m off to Sicily for the weekend — first Noto, and then Ortigia. You can do things like that when you live in Rome! More tomorrow…
Saturday, March 29th: Notes from Noto
Today, I’m writing to you from Noto, a town in southeastern Sicily that’s famous for its baroque architecture. Since arriving, I’ve learned that an earthquake hit Noto in 1693, demolishing its buildings and killing much of its population. In the earthquake’s aftermath, Noto was rebuilt in the style of the era: baroque.
I think of baroque architecture as characterized by extravagant detail, rich color, and curves, but I hadn’t appreciated until this trip that, at least here, the exteriors of baroque buildings are left without color. Yes, there are columns and carvings and cupolas, but there is also raw material on display. In Noto, the buildings are built with limestone — pale, textured, and lived-in, like a nonna’s skin.
Speaking of nonnas, my Airbnb has a tiny terrace that looks out on another building’s terrace, where a nonna stands and thinks, seemingly all day long. The Airbnb has stone floors and stairs that feel cool against my bare feet. There’s a lofted bed that feels more like a board, and on it rests a flimsy comforter patterned with Marilyn Monroe’s face. It’s a beautiful space, but not homey at all, and I keep thinking of what I’d do with it if it were mine. I’d paint the kitchen butter yellow and decorate a shelf with a collection of vintage moka pots. There’d be books — so many books — and lots of photos of the people I love. The bedding would be light gray, and it would be made of linen for the hot Sicilian summers.
One thing I would not change is the kitchen floor, which is perfect to me. (Top left of the above collage.)
I tried and failed to rally a friend to come to Sicily with me, so I came alone, and I’m glad I did. The only legitimate solo trip I’d ever taken prior to this one was a weekend in Lisbon back when I was studying in Bologna. I pretended — fiercely — that it was a spectacular experience, but the truth is that it was lonely and rainy, and that I would’ve enjoyed the garlicky shrimp and cold beer much more with someone else. However! I’m still drawn to solo travel, and am a stubborn believer in its potential magic.
Because I am who I am, my Sicilian weekend is revolving around eating and walking. Earlier today, I walked to Caffè Sicilia, a famous pasticceria on the main street of Noto, and ordered a glass of almond milk. I knew it would be good, but it was beyond good; it was toasty, creamy, mellow, and pure, and I could’ve drunk a gallon of it.
I walked to a market, too, so I could eat at home tonight. My plan is to fling the windows open to see the light intensify, turning the limestone to honey before it disappears. For dinner, I’ll eat bread with ricotta, Sicilian oregano, and olives, with a glass or two of wine. Then I’ll go to bed with a book.
Sunday, March 30th to Monday, May 1st: Notes from Ortigia
My Italian colleague and friend Valerio told me I mustn’t miss Ortigia while in Sicily, so I followed his instruction. It was a no-brainer; the bus from Noto takes less than an hour, and only costs a few euros. Ortigia is an island on the Ionian Sea that serves as the historical center of Siracusa, a city at the southeastern tip of Sicily (Ortigia is barely off the coast of Siracusa, and can be reached by bridge). Once upon a time, back in 734 BC, the Corinthians of Ancient Greece founded and settled in Siracusa, which became one of the most important cities in the Greek empire. Let me repeat: 734 BC! The Greeks settled Ortigia before they reached the mainland, so it is the oldest part of Siracusa.
Noto smelled of rosemary, sun, and stone. Ortigia smells of stone, too, but also of salt and must. I was struck with the scent this morning, on the rooftop of my B&B, which looked over the harbor.
Upon leaving the B&B, I walked the streets of Ortigia, taking photos and videos as I went. Eventually, I found a restaurant for lunch that looked good. To start, I ate little panelle, or fritters made of a chickpea flour batter, squeezed with lemon. Then, I had a plate of pasta with fresh anchovy filets and breadcrumbs. Also: white wine. I asked for a glass, and they gave me a mezzo litro, which I couldn’t quite finish. I finished my leisurely lunch with a café macchiato to wake me up before returning to the streets for some more aimless walking.
Not too long after, I headed to the train station to begin my journey back to Rome. Back to work tomorrow!
One last note: I took so many photos this weekend that I felt overwhelmed by the number, so I resorted to an 8-photo collage for each city. Basta. Follow me on Instagram (@phoebetomionfry) if you want to be spammed with photos of Italy.
All my love,
Phoebe